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HomeBlog › Clicking Noise When Turning? CV Axle Replacement b

Clicking Noise When Turning? CV Axle Replacement by Part Number (Jeep JK 1744014, Explorer NCV11072, Ranger 66-2147)

September 8, 2026 · 6 min read · AZ Sun Valley Sales
Front CV joint axle kit with boot for the 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK, manufacturer part number 1744014

Front-wheel drive should not work. Send power through a shaft that has to bend as the wheel steers and the suspension moves, and an ordinary universal joint — the cross-and-cap Cardan type you find in a driveshaft — will not deliver it smoothly. At any working angle a Cardan joint speeds up and slows down twice per revolution. The input turns at a constant rate; the output does not. On a driveshaft tucked under the floor at a shallow angle, nobody notices. Put that under the front of a car at 35 degrees of steering lock and the whole vehicle shudders in your hands.

The fix came out of Detroit in 1926, when a Ford engineer named Alfred Rzeppa patented a joint built from six steel balls held in a cage between an inner and outer race. The cage keeps the balls sitting in the plane that exactly bisects the angle between the two shafts, and that geometry is what makes the output speed equal the input speed at any angle. Constant velocity. It is the reason the 1959 Mini could turn the engine sideways over the front wheels and get away with it, and the reason nearly every car sold today is front- or all-wheel drive. That whole invention now lives inside a $110 part.

Cutaway view of a Rzeppa-type constant velocity joint showing the six balls held in a cage between the inner and outer races

The Rzeppa joint — six balls, a cage, and the geometry that made front-wheel drive practical (photo: Wikimedia Commons)

What the clicking actually is

A CV joint does not wear out from use. It wears out from losing its grease. The joint lives inside a pleated rubber or thermoplastic boot packed with molybdenum grease, and that boot is the only thing standing between polished bearing surfaces and the road. Boots crack from age, from ozone, from a Phoenix summer of heat cycling, or from a rock thrown up off the freeway. Once a boot splits, centrifugal force throws the grease out in a matter of miles and grit gets pulled in behind it. From that point the balls start hammering their tracks into the outer race.

The click you hear is those balls skipping across worn tracks. It shows up first at full lock in a parking lot, because that is the largest angle the joint ever sees, and it gets louder from there. It is not a safety emergency the day it starts, but it is a countdown — an outer joint that finally lets go while you are turning across traffic separates the wheel from the drivetrain.

Reading the symptom: outer joint, inner joint, or something else entirely

Joint kit or complete axle assembly?

Both approaches are in stock, and they are genuinely different jobs. A joint-and-boot kit repairs the shaft you already have: pull the axle, remove the circlip, press the old joint off, repack, reassemble. It is the cheaper part and the right call when the shaft itself is straight and the other end is healthy. The Front CV Joint Axle Kit for the 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK — $135.99 replaces manufacturer part number 1744014 and includes the boot, which is the piece that failed in the first place.

A complete axle assembly is the faster repair and the one most shops default to. You unbolt the old shaft and bolt in a new one — no press, no repacking, no chance of getting a circlip wrong on your back in the driveway. For a 2011-2014 Explorer we have a matched pair of front CV axle shaft assemblies for the 3.5L FWD Explorer at $134.99, manufacturer part number NCV11072, listed against Ford numbers BB5Z3B437A and DB5Z3B437A and interchange numbers 662283 and 662286. It ships with the axle nut, which matters more than it sounds: that nut has an M22 x 1.5 thread and is a one-time-use fastener.

If only one side is bad — and it usually is, because the side that sees more full-lock turning in your daily driving wears first — there is an A-Premium front right passenger CV axle shaft for the Nissan Murano at $120.99. For older body-on-frame trucks, the PHILTOP front CV axle shaft pair 66-2147 and 66-2148 for the Ford Ranger and Mazda B4000, $109.99 covers both sides in one box, which is the sensible way to buy them once a truck is old enough that one failure means the other is close behind.

Three things to confirm before you order

Left and right are not interchangeable. On most transverse-engine cars the two shafts are different lengths, because the transmission does not sit on the vehicle centerline. Order by side, not by "front axle," and check which side the listing covers.

Check for an ABS tone ring. Some applications carry the reluctor ring on the axle itself rather than the hub. If yours does and the replacement does not, you will finish the job and immediately set an ABS light. Compare the old shaft to the new one on the bench before anything goes back together — it takes ten seconds and saves an afternoon.

Torque the axle nut to spec, with a new nut. Under-torque it and the hub bearing runs loose; over-torque it and you preload the bearing into an early death. Look up the figure for your specific vehicle — on many trucks and crossovers it is well north of 150 lb-ft — and use a real torque wrench with the vehicle on the ground and the brake held.

One last piece of practical advice: while the axle is out, look hard at the transmission output seal it was riding in. A seal is a few dollars and twenty extra minutes right now. It is the entire job over again in six months when it starts weeping down the side of the case.

Bottom line: if your car clicks through every turn in a parking lot, you need a CV axle, and we have them in stock in Mesa.
🛒 Buy the Jeep Wrangler JK Front CV Joint Axle Kit (1744014) — $135.99 (1 in stock)
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